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Library
Designs |
Book
Construction & Care |
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addition to being a storage unit of knowledge, a book
is an object of veneration and even love to many. It can even be an object
of art. Hefting a book and feeling its weight, the texture and aroma of
its leather cover, the artistic adornment inside and out, even the way
light reflects off the page and the different inks; these are all important
aspects of experiencing a book.
Its construction, while relatively straight forward, has great variations in cost, beauty and durability. The Book Making Process Paper is selected for reasons such as low price or its strength, durability and beauty. It can last from less than a few decades to over 300 years. Normal paper is somewhat acidic with a pH of less than 7.0. Acid free paper has a pH of 7.0 or slightly greater. The longest lasting paper is Archival quality paper. Archival paper is acid free and lignin free (see below) and rated by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) using standard #11108. The paper can be cut either by hand or by machine, and except for the least expensive paperbacks, is cut with the grain, "top to tail".
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Binding in the paperback is done by gluing the loose pages directly to the heavy paper cover. As expense increases in the hardcover, the pages are sewn, typically with waxed linen thread, into bundles called in quires. The quires can then be glued directly to the cover, or with the most durable and expensive books, glued and sewn to the spine which is in turn glued to the cover. Covers are made from heavy paper, cardboard or even wood for strength. In the best books, the spine strip is curved away from the spine to allow the pages to fall flat when the book is opened (rather than try to stand straight up as in a paperback).
Additional Information Book Arts – Details of some of the elements that go into book makingBooksforever.com – Source of book repair, protection, preservation and display products How Books Are Made – Outline of bookmaking through the ages Thomson-Shore – Paperback book factory tour Book Care In addition to its materials and construction, it is the storage and handling of a book that determines it’s useful life, and to collectors, impacts its value. One improper incident can have a lasting negative impact on the book. Remember that damage is cumulative.
A book should be stored in a stable, cool, clean and non-humid environment. High humidity as typically found in an attic or basement promotes mold growth, can cockle the pages and attract insects which eat the binding glue which is usually organically based. Low humidity, such as that found above heating vents or radiators, refrigerators, or any heat source, can dry out the leather binding.
Leaving the book exposed to direct sun-light, or any other powerful ultraviolet (UV) source, will fade leather and cloth covers, especially along the spine. For example, blue leather fades to a dull green and read leather to brown.
Many books are shelved in closed class cases to minimize the amount of dust and grime from the surrounding air that will accumulate on the book. Dirt can also be transferred to a book by handling it while one’s hands are dirty. Clear plastic Dust Jacket Protectors are the single best and most economical way to protect your books from wear and tear. Books should be shelved standing straight up. If they must be stacked, make sure that they are square, not twisted around or along their spine.
It is easy to damage a book by pulling it off the shelf by the head cap or the top of the spine. Rather, push the two adjoining books toward the back of the shelf and clasp the selected book by both sides with your palm along the spine. On the shelf, place books of similar height next to each other to prevent the warping of the taller book against the shorter.
Using a paperclip to mark a page will rust and crimp the page. Folding down the corner of a page to mark your place will eventually cause the “dog ear” to break off. Marking on the page in ink may bleed through obscuring text on the other side. Using rubber bands or string to tie-up a book will cut into brittle pages and damage fragile covers; use a flat, soft ribbon instead as a temporary measure.
Brittle pages are usually the result of great age or non-acid free paper. Some processes used to create paper leave products, such as lignin which is natural to wood fiber, in the paper which change into acid with time. The time it takes is proportional to the temperature and humidity: the higher the temperature and humidity, the quicker the change into acid. This acid eventually destroys the paper. If the pages are not so brittle that they break apart in the hand, the acid in the paper can in some cases be neutralized. Otherwise a plastic or tissue paper lamination may be required. In any case, the Foundation of the American Institute for Conservation (AIC) has a referral service that will help you secure professional help.
If you have, or plan to have, books with collector appeal, do not mark them in any way; e.g. by writing your name or a dedication in them, affixing book plates or impressing a library seal, as this will negatively affect their value.
Clean your books about once a year by removing the dust jacket and going over them with a good feather duster while you hold the book tightly closed. Additional Information:
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